January/February 2003 • To the Finish • Economy Dominated Jewelers Sales in 2002 • News & Updates • In This Issue

According to Colored Stone's annual survey of retailers, there are still plenty of custom jewelers in the United States, and those jewelers continue to buy loose colored stones. But that doesn't mean the market is wide open. For many in the jewelry business, trust is a key issue, and established jewelers say they generally prefer to do business with those they already know.

"We buy almost everything from a few suppliers that we have been working with for years — some more than 30," says Daniel Spirer of Spirer Somes Jewelers in Cambridge, Massachusetts. "I rarely buy from any new people anymore. I simply don't trust the marketplace enough. I prefer to work with the established [dealers], mostly AGTA members that we have been dealing with for years. At least with them, I can be reasonably assured I am getting what I think I am."

In Colored Stone's survey, 72 percent of respondents said they buy loose gemstones from regular domestic suppliers, compared to 40 percent who buy at trade shows and 28 percent who purchase from traveling salespeople.

If a jeweler is happy with his colored stone supplier, there is often no reason to look elsewhere, and there are a number of reasons not to.

"If you deal with one dealer specifically, he will tend to court you and give you good terms," says David Keeling of David Keeling Fine Jewellery in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. "I buy from three or four different companies, but primarily from one [dealer] because he treats me extremely well. This gentleman pays me a visit two or three times a year, takes me to dinner, and spends time with me. He's very interested in me growing the business, and wants me to do more colored stone work."

< A variey of colored stone rings with diamond accents; photo and jewelry courtesy Philip Zahm Gemstones.

"Building trust for both buyer and seller simplifies ordering," observes Thomas Blair of Island Gold Works in Hilton Head, South Carolina. "We have always paid on time, and now, when I need something, [they send items on memo]. The other day, [my principal supplier] sent a dozen approximately one-carat, clipped-corner, princess-cut, top-of-the-line sapphires for me to show a client and choose one."

That's not to say retailers never turn to new suppliers. Inevitably, retirement and death leave holes in the jeweler's network, and it becomes necessary to forge new relationships. And occasionally, a dealer will offer a product so unique or exceptional that he can get by a jeweler's instant "I'm not interested" response.

"I had one guy show up in the beginning of December one year, and I told him under no condition was I going to buy anything from him, but that I would look at what he had for the future," says Spirer. "Ten thousand dollars later, I realized we had another new supplier." — SW

Online Resources for Bench Jewelers

Jewelers of America (JA)
Jewelers of America (JA) is the national association for the retail jeweler. JA is both a center of knowledge for the jeweler and an advocate for professionalism and high social, ethical, and environmental standards in the jewelry trade. JA provides access to educational programs and services, leadership in public and industry affairs, and encourages members with common interests to act in their and the industry’s best interests.
The JA Bench Jeweler Certification Program is a standardized method of gauging the skills of bench jewelers. Each level involves a written test and a practical bench test. JA's Bench Jeweler Certification Program allows participants to attain certification with one of four designations:

• JA Certified Bench Jeweler Technician (CBJT)
• JA Certified Bench Jeweler (CBJ)
• JA Certified Senior Bench Jeweler (CSBJ)
• JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler (CMBJ)

New Approach School for Jewelers
Offers both fresh and experienced bench jewelers visual-intensive, hands-on jewelry repair and fabrication training to help them increase their productivity and profitability. Features a 12-week Graduate Bench Jeweler Program.

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Offers Jewelry Technician and Graduate Jeweler courses in preparation for the Jewelers of America (JA) Certified Bench Jeweler tests, levels one and two.

Ganoksin.com
The Ganoksin Project is a gem and jewelry resource on the internet, building a strong pool of information for the benefit of the Web's jewelers and craftsmen — and those interested in jewelry and gemstones. Features Tips from the Jewelers Bench, an open forum for jewelry manufacturing methods and procedures with an extensive list of jewelry and jewelry design related reading material, and The BenchExchange, where jewelers share photos of what their benches look like.

Society of American Silversmiths
The Society of American Silversmiths is a resource for anything related to the silversmiths' art and craft. It a professional organization solely devoted to the preservation and promotion of contemporary silversmithing, specifically in the areas of holloware, flatware, and sculpture. It provides its artisan members with support, networking, and greater access to the market. The Web site features extensive information on silversmithing, as well as helpful sections like ShopTalk, Tool Exchange, and other forums.