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Fashions for fall and winter 2005-2006 take funky excess to a more sophisticated level.

Loop de Loop

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Everything is exaggerated on the runway. Boots top the knee, necklines meet the waist, and sheer blouses expose more than skin. It is understood by fashion editors, designers, and buyers that exaggeration will be corrected in the retailing food chain.

This year, that whimsical spirit of exaggeration extended to jewelry — specifically, necklaces. The effect was a parody of the delicate gold chain, the pearl rope, and the gypsy bead look, complementing the soft, flowing shapes of next fall’s dresses. Metal chains dripped over the shoulders of models on the runway and often went to the floor. Multiple layers of chains in metal, gems, beads, and wood reflected the heavily textured style of next fall’s fashion.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Diane von Furstenberg • Tracy Reese • Calvin Klein • Benjamin Cho • Anna Sui

Long & Lean

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The long, linear earring was an elegant, stand-alone accessory for evening wear on the Fall ’05 runways. Gone was the elaborate scaffolding of the chandelier earring. Whether a single yellow gold thread, a dangling bead, or a cluster of multicolored gems, earrings followed the line of the exposed neck, barely grazing the shoulders. The effect was sculpted and classic, and went perfectly with sleek, pulled-back hair, a la Hilary Swank at the Oscars, or long waves tucked behind the ears.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Mark Bouwer • Ralph Lauren • Joanna Mastroianni

Eyes on the Wrist

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Why wear one bracelet when two, three, or half a dozen will do? And why limit yourself to metal when beads, gems, wood, and fabric add to the drama? Bracelets are joining the party next fall. Not to be outdone by multi-layers of necklace chains, bracelets came stacked on the Fall ’05 runways. Bracelets drew attention to the wrist — not with glitter, color, or a single dramatic stone, but through excess. A textured row of bangles or an oversized cuff made a colorful, geometric accessory to a simple slip dress, climbing up a bare arm, set off by next season’s shorter sleeves. Other times, bracelets were coordinated with tiered necklace chains, encrusted belts, and even fabric and leggings to create an ensemble.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Vera Wang • Marc by Marc Jacobs • Ralph Lauren • Anna Sui

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Stop Popping

Fashion for next fall veered to the dark side after seasons of vibrant green, yellow, pink, and orange. Clothing stuck to jewel tones in as dark a cast as possible. When fashion strayed from ubiquitous black, it was to the safety of chocolate and smoky brown, muted green, plum, antique gold, and teal. There were no bright pops of color: Red, yellow, blue, and green appeared as rust, mustard yellow, sage green, and midnight blue.

No single gemstone made headlines, as turquoise or pink sapphire had in the past few years. It was more about the color than the stone. The colors to look for were the rich jewel tones of the Big Three — ruby, emerald, and sapphire — but in muted shades, such as garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, jade, and aquamarine. Opaque gems, as well as pearls, also appeared in their smokiest incarnations: pistachio pearl, black onyx, smoky quartz, and tiger’s eye.

The sparkle on the runway came, not from diamonds or colored stones, but fabric and trim in sequins, lamé, and satin. Jewelry tended toward yellow gold set with large, deep-colored gems.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Jill Stuart • Zac Posen

Boho Chic

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The layered, flowing, ethnic look of fashion next fall has been called “Boho chic” and “urban gypsy.” On the runways, fabrics in wallpaper, floral, and brocade patterns recalled the peasant dresses of the 1960s. But this was far from an eclectic look: Outfits were streamlined, well fitted, and, above all, ladylike.

Jewelry, too, was chunky, layered, and ethnic, yet still ladylike. There were lots of pendants with chunky stones, retro beaded chains, and stacks of bangles. These weren’t meant for gypsies; they were meant for sexy gypsies with successful careers. Sometimes the jewelry itself added the Bohemian touch by mixing metal with plastic, ebony, wood, ivory, beads, and even fabric.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Pollini • Vera Wang • Cynthia Steffe • Reem Acra

Beyond Jewelry

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Something strange happened to fashion on the way to Paris, New York, and Milan this year. The lines between clothing and jewelry, between accent and accessory, became blurred. Fall fashion incorporated jewelry into the fabric and trim, so that jewelry pieces themselves became an extension of the outfit.

We’re not just talking about jewel-crusted straps and belts; designers worked gems into the fabric, so that dresses became walking pieces of jewelry, and there were even buttons and beads that seemed to substitute for jewelry.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Carolina Herrera • Vera Wang • Cynthia Steffe • Jeffrey Chow • Tracy Reese • Oscar de La Renta • Derek Lam • Anna Sui

Leave ’em Hanging

The most — perhaps the only — delicate piece of jewelry on the fall fashion runway was the pendant. Amid chunky rocks and heavy metal chains, the simple pendant was used several times on the runway to good effect.

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FASHION DESIGNERS: Marc by Marc Jacobs • Betsey Johnson • Reem Acra • Gustavo Arango • Cynthia Steffe

May/June 2005 • Style: A Touch of Class • Selling: Cultured Youth • Online Poll: Myanmar Gems • News & Updates • In This Issue

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Under each jewelry style, click on the fashion designers' names to see their fall 2005 collections, which utilized that particular style on their runway.